In 1988 there's hardly a soul in Boston who gives a hoot about food who hasn't marveled at the exotic and exciting flavors of Thailand, formerly Siam, a country no larger than Texas and on the other side of the world.

But 'twas not always thus. Thai cuisine arrived in Boston in 1979 at a restaurant called Bangkok Cuisine on a scuzz;y section of Mass. Ave. near Symphony Hall. For early initiates to the pleasures of Thai cuisine in that little hole-in-the wall, those first bites of Pad Thai (the noodle dish that is to Thailand what Spaghetti is to Italy) were like dying and going to heaven.

All of the rhapsodizing leads us to the man who first brought a little bit of Siamese heaven to Beantown, Chef Amorn Vutcsarangkul who now presides over the Thai Grille of the Kowloon Restaurant in Saugus. The Kowloon has responded to the immense popularity of Thai food by adding a completely separate Thai kitchen to the restaurant that has enjoyed great success in serving Chinese food.

What accounts for the overnight acceptance of this exotic cuisine? It is a food style that is completely in tune with the times ---- healthy, light, low-fat, colorful, textural, featuring fresh ingredients and seasoned with exciting and rare herbs. The flavors range from subtle and delicate to fiery and complex. Hot chili peppers are a key ingredient to many dishes. According to Chef Amorn, "We use only the good stuff."

In Thailand, cooking well is a virtue that has been elevated to a high art and just about everybody in that country is a good cook. Chef Amorn grew up in a restaurant family and early on developed a dedication to his craft. At the Kowloon, he is rarely out of the kitchen for more than an hour or two. "Everything has to be perfect," he says. "Each dish is cooked to order, not prepared hours or days ahead, so you can't turn your back for long."